First impression - restrained. Then it comes. Waves of lemon pith, white nectarine, grilled cashew, citrus blossom, a flick of almond and spice. The palate is textured, taut and savoury, with a line of minerality that cuts like a hot knife through (lemon) butter. There’s plenty of fruit, nectarine, grapefruit and pear skin, but it’s all balanced by subtly chalky minerality and mouthwatering acidity. New French oak adds a toasty, vanillan aspect, wrapping things up in structure rather than sweetness. That whisper of grapefruit pith on the finish... Chef’s kiss.