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Why do we love this case?

We’ve gone full hipster on you, mofos. More accurately, our new lycra-swanning, fixie-straddling, pet nat-drinking wine buyer Beth has. And although I was, I admit, initially a skeptic (some would say hater, but I like to think I’m open-minded) I’m seriously considering buying a couple of cases of this. The three whites (I use the term loosely) go from high strung to supersonic while the reds (again, loose) go from gluggable to regret that there’s not more. These wines are natural in all the right ways. Bright, balanced, simply made but terribly complex. Beautiful expressions of place, and time. You’ll never go back. I know I won’t. 

Each pack contains whiffs of Darwinian philosophy, plus a bottle of each of the following very real wines:

White
Other White
Australia

Punch Saffron 2015
Feral
Floral
Grapefruit
Light-bodied
Grippy
Bold

From the experimental Elemental series by Punch in Kinglake, this wine is a skin contact blend of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, co-fermented (orange wine = white grapes fermented on skins, like a red wine). Full natural malolactic fermentation in old French oak barrels, followed by another four months barrel maturation, then rested in tank for nine months. Bottled under crown seal with no fining or filtration. Minimal sulphites added prior to bottling. Some yeast sediment has settled in bottle, so suspend before opening by rolling bottle like a Coopers Vintage Ale. So delicious. Great orange wine from a producer with a lot of attention to detail, and such a versatile food wine.

You'd pay $32.00 full price

White
White Blend
Bendigo

Bertrand Bespoke Field Blend 2016
Apricot
Nutty
Peach
Medium-bodied
Mellow
Bold

Gilles Lapalus, of Sutton Grange and Maidenii fame, has made this blend of chardonnay, viognier and riesling (from two separate vintages, no less) like there’s no tomorrow. No filtration, minimal sulphites. No rules. The package is left field, the premise pushing boundaries. He's on many a hip wine list too: Cutler & Co, Builders Arms, Cumulus, and Bar Liberty (and that’s just a sample of Melbourne). Popular! But I can forgive it these trendy transgressions. The wine’s very good. Reminds me of fine-boned porcelain for some reason. “It’s a bit nutty, a bit oxidative, and the richness on the palate screams food,” says buyer Beth. “The spiritual matching of central Vic with Burgundy - let’s have some Bresse chicken and apple tarte tartin!” Sure! You cook Beth, I’ll just be here enjoying this.

You'd pay $24.00 full price

White
Pinot Gris
Australia

BK Wines Ovum Pinot Gris 2016
Green Apple
Honeysuckle
Nutty
Medium-bodied
Mellow
Bold

BK’s got concrete egg fermenters, and he knows how to use them. After blitzing his pet nat out at vintage time, his single vineyard gris grapes from Lenswood go in. They sit happily for a month or so under a cool blanket of carbon dioxide, macerating, fermenting, doing what gris grapes do when you’re not looking. Then the wine stays in the egg on lees for a full year. This is not gris as you know it. As Canadian reviewer Anthony Gismondi said, this is “real wine”. It’s nutty, fruity, salty, light, fleshy, fine and full, floral but serious, dry but fruit-sweet. All the juxtapositions. But sure is scrumptious. BK reckons you should have with poached apples and really good French vanilla bean ice cream. Alright, if I must.

You'd pay $32.00 full price

Red
Other Red
Chile

Mauricio Gonzales Carreño Pipeño Pais 2016
Cherry
Herbaceous
Redcurrant
Light-bodied
Bright
Delicate

Spicy, smoky, meaty - redcurrants and plum, black pepper and tannic and acidic. Tart as f*ck, and equally delicious. Here’s a wine for some fatty food if ever I tasted one. Lots of words on the label, potentially hard to pronounce. Let’s deconstruct them. Mauricio Gonzalez Carreño’s the maker, so there’s three. His vines are organic, dry grown, mostly ancient and ungrafted. He’s devoted to low intervention winemaking, and committed to revitalising pipeño, a refreshing, low alcohol wine, made from the país grape, in pipas – barrels made from the local wood raulí (his are around a century old). So there you go, there are those words on the label and then some. I feel like we’re learning Spanish in the best way possible. I hope you have the bottle open by now. Here are some other cool facts. Mauricio found and restored a manually-cranked destemmer that leaves some whole berries. He makes strictly in the old way without any additions: fully destemmed, open ferment in pipas. Unfined, unfiltered, zero sulphur. "Light., Natty, Rad,” according to buyer Beth. Natty = natural, for those who don’t speak over-caffeinated-hipster-wine-buyer. Rad = very delicious. There, I feel like we learned a lot and had a good time doing it.

You'd pay $30.00 full price

Red
Shiraz
Adelaide Hills

Ngeringa Uncultured Syrah Nouveau 2017
Licorice
Plum
Raspberry
Light-bodied
Bright
Bold

Ngeringa are leaders in biodynamics, probably the most preeminent wine producer in Australia when it comes to taking the farming method to the world. Some would call them fanatics. I call them fantastic. So we already know they don’t add anything or take anything away. “Uncultured” is their no sulphur series of wines, taking properly natural to the next level. This stuff is bloody delicious too. Don’t think shiraz as you know it - that’s the first hurdle people usually fall at. This is a fun, vibrant expression of good grapes grown with love. It’s Adelaide Hills. It’s the sheep that graze the mid-rows. It’s the homeopathic quantities of manure that’s over-wintered in bull horns. It’s the silica that’s been sprayed when the grapes need that bit more light. It’s the whole bunch ferment, and the lack of sulphur. Most importantly, it’s the attention and care that Janet and Erinn Klein have put in to take land from a herb farm to cuttings to mature vines to grapes to bottle over the last couple of decades. It’s the love. Taste the love. To me, it’s like Campari and orange, red plums and musk stick, all the strawberries, cherries and banana lolly of whole bunch happiness, and an electric buzz of carbon dioxide that turns everything up a notch. Take buyer Beth’s advice: “If spritz on the palate isn’t your thing, chuck it in a decanter.” I’ll be chucking it in my glass, raising it to Erinn and Janet, and enjoying every sensation.

You'd pay $20.00 full price

Red
Sangiovese
Yarra Valley

Fikkers Two Bricks Sangiovese 2016
Plum
Redcurrant
Spice
Medium-bodied
Bright
Elegant
James Halliday
Special value award James Halliday

Of Mac Forbes fame and now 2IC at Giant Steps, Tony Fikkers is the calibre of winemaker that you want making hands-off, attention-to-detail wines. We couldn't get our hands on his cult-status pinot meunier (so you'll have to drink it in a bar on Gertrude, Crown or Peel Sts), but we reckon this bright, juicy Sangio will do the trick. Destemmed berries were left to do their thing for a month with barely a punch down. Pressed to mostly old French oak for about the time it takes to bring a baby from wombin’ to wriggling human. No added yeasts or acids, no fining or filtration. “Gobfuls of red fruits,” says Halliday, a “1yo sangiovese with depth and attitude from fruit rather than tannins.” Scrumptious.

You'd pay $29.00 full price